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Eyleens stoof - Printable Version

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Eyleens stoof - Eyleen - 03-02-2016

First off, thanks to Senni for his easy-to-understand tutorial, without it I would not have gotten this far. It still took me way longer than I dare to admit, and did not turn out like I wanted. But, long story short, here it is.

[+]First Sword
[+]Mace
[+]Torch
[+]Repeater Crossbow
Dragon Bow
Download
Torch

I would appreciate some constructive feedback from someone more experienced at this, there are so many issues still which I could not figure out yet.  :-\

Re: Eyleens stoof - Terath - 03-02-2016

Hey, this is pretty damn good! I'm impressed.

About constructive criticism - there's not much I can form from this picture alone. A lot of the problems with models are in either Blender or OpenBRF, so to see problems I'd have to see it there.

As far as texture unwrapping goes, yours seems to be pretty solid, so that's good. I can see where you split the top of the guard by the white line, however (at least that's what I hope that is). Also, either you didn't merge the tip of the blade's vertices or the camera is cutting it off, but the tip of the sword is missing and is leaving an open hole (or it's just flat).

Pommel, handle, guard and blade shape are all completely usable and shaped correctly, so you're good on that front as well. I'm not a fan of leaf blades, but hey, to each their own.

All in all, a very solid model and completely usable. I'd love to see some more if you're interested!

Edit: Also, you said you had some issues with the model. I'd be glad to answer them if you feel like asking  Smile.

Re: Eyleens stoof - Slugbath - 03-02-2016

Not only are you the best RG - you seem to have a talent for everything you touch.



Re: Eyleens stoof - Eyleen - 03-02-2016

The biggest issue right now, how do I get rid of visible UV seams? It works alright on the blade because I can just use the sharp edges as seams, but as you have noticed on the guard I mirrored along the middle axis. When choosing the edges as seams I cant paint those properly which looks poorly done. How do you solve that problem on your models?
That white line is surrounding area bleeding into the texture, should probably fix that.  :-\

Re: Eyleens stoof - Terath - 03-02-2016

(03-02-2016, 08:08 PM)Eyleen link Wrote:The biggest issue right now, how do I get rid of visible UV seams? It works alright on the blade because I can just use the sharp edges as seams, but as you have noticed on the guard I mirrored along the middle axis. When choosing the edges as seams I cant paint those properly which looks poorly done. How do you solve that problem on your models?
That white line is surrounding area bleeding into the texture, should probably fix that.  :-\

For me, to fix visible UV seams, I use the seam tool (ctrl + E, mark seam) only on edges, so that when I unwrap it only splits on the edge and not across the center.

UV edge seams are pretty logic based; if you make a cube and tell the model to unwrap by unwrapping an edge seamed square on the cube, it'll perfectly unwrap one square on the cube and unwrap the REST of the cube based on those specific edge seams. Without edge seams, everything unwraps as a square and looks like poop.

If you have a line of vertices going down the center of your guard, you should check and see if it is marked for unwrap via the 'center vertices' line.

I'd give some pictures, but I'm at school right now. I may edit this post when I get home and upload pictures Smile hope I helped.

Edit: Ah, I forgot. For things like cylinders and stuff, you want to edge seam the top and bottom circles and one line of the side of the cylinder. What this does is it unwraps the two circles as circles and the cylinder as a flat sheet, making it easier to texture.

Re: Eyleens stoof - ON_Glenn - 03-02-2016

(03-02-2016, 08:18 PM)Terath link Wrote:[quote author=Eyleen link=topic=52984.msg257840#msg257840 date=1454530109]
The biggest issue right now, how do I get rid of visible UV seams? It works alright on the blade because I can just use the sharp edges as seams, but as you have noticed on the guard I mirrored along the middle axis. When choosing the edges as seams I cant paint those properly which looks poorly done. How do you solve that problem on your models?
That white line is surrounding area bleeding into the texture, should probably fix that.  :-\

For me, to fix visible UV seams, I use the seam tool (ctrl + E, mark seam) only on edges, so that when I unwrap it only splits on the edge and not across the center.

UV edge seams are pretty logic based; if you make a cube and tell the model to unwrap by unwrapping an edge seamed square on the cube, it'll perfectly unwrap one square on the cube and unwrap the REST of the cube based on those specific edge seams. Without edge seams, everything unwraps as a square and looks like poop.

If you have a line of vertices going down the center of your guard, you should check and see if it is marked for unwrap via the 'center vertices' line.

I'd give some pictures, but I'm at school right now. I may edit this post when I get home and upload pictures Smile hope I helped.

Edit: Ah, I forgot. For things like cylinders and stuff, you want to edge seam the top and bottom circles and one line of the side of the cylinder. What this does is it unwraps the two circles as circles and the cylinder as a flat sheet, making it easier to texture.
[/quote]
If I only could understand what they are talking about :'(..

Re: Eyleens stoof - Looter - 03-02-2016

(03-02-2016, 08:57 PM)ON_Glenn link Wrote:[quote author=Terath link=topic=52984.msg257842#msg257842 date=1454530731]
[quote author=Eyleen link=topic=52984.msg257840#msg257840 date=1454530109]
The biggest issue right now, how do I get rid of visible UV seams? It works alright on the blade because I can just use the sharp edges as seams, but as you have noticed on the guard I mirrored along the middle axis. When choosing the edges as seams I cant paint those properly which looks poorly done. How do you solve that problem on your models?
That white line is surrounding area bleeding into the texture, should probably fix that.  :-\

For me, to fix visible UV seams, I use the seam tool (ctrl + E, mark seam) only on edges, so that when I unwrap it only splits on the edge and not across the center.

UV edge seams are pretty logic based; if you make a cube and tell the model to unwrap by unwrapping an edge seamed square on the cube, it'll perfectly unwrap one square on the cube and unwrap the REST of the cube based on those specific edge seams. Without edge seams, everything unwraps as a square and looks like poop.

If you have a line of vertices going down the center of your guard, you should check and see if it is marked for unwrap via the 'center vertices' line.

I'd give some pictures, but I'm at school right now. I may edit this post when I get home and upload pictures Smile hope I helped.

Edit: Ah, I forgot. For things like cylinders and stuff, you want to edge seam the top and bottom circles and one line of the side of the cylinder. What this does is it unwraps the two circles as circles and the cylinder as a flat sheet, making it easier to texture.
[/quote]
If I only could understand what they are talking about :'(..
[/quote]
Magic and Witchcraft
Anyway, the sword looks white at the tip, is this just because of the angle of the picture or actually there at all angles.

Re: Eyleens stoof - Eyleen - 03-02-2016

Thats caused by the lighting Looter. Adding another picture from a different angle to illustrate.

Re: Eyleens stoof - Sinister Soldier - 04-02-2016

Awesome for a first try!

Re: Eyleens stoof - Eyleen - 05-02-2016

Headcrusher deluxe added.
This is definitely becoming more fun once you know how it works.  Big Grin